cancer. daydreamer. traveler. fashionista. amateurphotographer. writer. reconnectivehealingpractitioner. mothernatureschild .... poetryandliteraturepaintapowerfulpicture. dancefreelyandsingoutloud. cherishthecompanyofotherlivingbeings. swimintheocean. climbamountain. fallinlove. falloutoflove. whenyouhearthatbeatinyourheadspinaroundarmsoutstretchedlookupattheskyandbreatheinwhatitfeelsliketobealive.







Thursday, October 31, 2013

Thoughts on Surfing, Kauai

Falling in love with surfing, wanting to learn to ride a short board and having a craving to surf perfect waves in the tropics was all the convincing I needed to purchase my ticket to Kauai last minute.  We, well, came to SURF and that's pretty much all we've done.  Let's just say a few Advil, yoga and a gallon of water on the daily, and falling asleep by 9pm have never felt so good!    

The learning curve is steep right now but in just a week a lot has evolved within me physically, mentally, and spiritually.  The sport of surfing is more than just a sport, it's a way of life.  Every time I surf I end up with some metaphorical lesson I can apply to the way I live my life.  It strengthens the mind, body, and spirit and in that sense surfing itself is a sort of "guru".  It allows you to endure physical pain and be thankful for it, it introduces you to inner strengths of all kinds you might never know existed, and it humbles the heck out of you if you are willing to push your limits.    

More pictures of our days here in Hawaii!

Got these 2 boards for $200 on Craigslist!  Sweet deal!  6'4" x19 1/4 round tail thruster.

5'10" x 20 x 2 5/8 Surf Tech. I love this lil' girl!

Poncho's biggest fans, The Tavern, Princeville



Yummy Acai Bowl to recharge with after a morning sesh


The Queens Bath, Princeville

Take your choice... right OR left

Franny getting some lefts at Waikokos


Surf trip on a budget: 3 girls, one studio, one hot plate, one bathroom/washing station ;)


Another gorgeous sunset <3

Playing at Hanalei Fire Station 1

Takin' care of business

Watching the sunset from the St. Regis

Sunset...love!



We love the Honu energy




1 comment:

  1. Hollis enjoy the love! the passion!! Your spirit is amazing. Much love to you!!!

    ReplyDelete